Textiles & Society

DESIGNER PROFILE 

LENORE DEMBSKI

AUSTRALIAN FASHION DESIGNER

Lenore Dembski is a contemporary Aboriginal fashion designer influencing current trends. Her designs feature textiles designed and produced by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders and reflect her cultural heritage and contemporary focus.

For almost 30 years Lenore has been designing and manufacturing clothing. Lenore's labels which feature men's, women's and children's clothing suitable for resort, day and evening wear, include:

  • Lenore Dembski Paperbark Woman (women's wear)
  • Oakman (men's wear)
  • Aunty Lenore (children's wear).

The clothing she produces is made using fabric designed by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island people. Lenore purchases fabrics from a pool of about twenty designers and organises the manufacture of garments. Lenore is also the owner of a retail outlet, Paperbark Woman.

Lenore Dembski was born in Darwin, and with the exception of about four years in the early 1980s, has lived there all her life. Lenore has been married for 24 years to Andrew Dembski. Her family name is Calma.Lenore Dembski says the Paperbark Woman name comes from her Aboriginal group, the Kungarakan people, who are known as Paperbark people

Lenore was taught to sew by her mother when she was about eight. To start with, she made dolls' clothes and costumes for plays put on by her sisters and friends. She began sewing for herself and her brother and sisters by the time she was twelve and started designing, drafting and sewing clothes for other people by the time she was thirteen. Lenore learnt some formal skills in sewing when she did "Sewing" during first year at Darwin High School. Between 15 and 18, Lenore modelled in a number of fashion parades and worked on weekends and school holidays for Woolworths selling all forms of clothing, materials and haberdashery (Powerhouse museum).

 

By her mid-teens, Lenore knew how to do knitting, crocheting, tatting, beadwork, tapestry, batik, tie dye, macrame, applique, patchwork and various other art and craft activities. She used an Elna SU sewing machine and a Contesser overlocker. She attended a number of short courses put on by Elna in applique and machine embroidery, men's wear, swim wear, lingerie, and stretch materials. In Adelaide in 1982, Lenore did a twelve hour course to learn formal techniques in drafting (Paperbark woman).

Sparkly and flowing this dress represents night stars or perhaps a dreamtime story the contrast of colours and the unique flowing effect of the coloured material are Lenore’s way of telling a story through clothing design.

Traditionally Aboriginal men & women did not wear much printed materials or much clothing at all, and when Europeans arrived they were forced to comply with European dress codes.

Floral motifs such as the one used on the outfit above is a common theme in the aboriginal culture. The relationship that bush or floral motifs can communicate is where the print originated and which clan painted or printed the fabric.

Aboriginal culture used flora for food, medicine and in the use of jewellery and other useable items, Flora is an integral part of Aboriginal culture and is frequently used in art and textiles and symbolise the environment.

Earthy tones in this fabric remind me of the outback, this dress is a great representation of Lenore Dembski’s work were she has incorporated a snake skin type cut out into the side of the dress. 

The way Lenore shows us culture and history through the use of fabric and design is very inspiring and special.

It is a common feature in Lenore’s work to incorporate features of flora and fauna, mainly because the Aboriginal people have such a strong relationship with these elements.

Wildflowers in the great red desert, is what this particular dress design reminds me of. The use of dyeing techniques is not a recent development in Aboriginal culture the Ruby saltbush Enchylaena tomentosa bush is a common shrub in most habitats across the Western Australian region. Masses of tasty orange, yellow, or red fruits are produced after rains and are a favoured bush food of kids. The fruits were also used by Aboriginal people to produce a red dye (Glenelg hopkins).

The red dye was then used to dye items such as baskets and grass skirts which were used for ceremonial purposes.

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